WHERE TO SOURCE THE MEAT

Wondering where you can find bear shanks, squirrel and more? North Carolina law prohibits the sale or purchase of wild game meat, so getting a hold of it legally is difficult, unless a friend shares.

No one to gift it to you? In the Asheville area, King Farms in Leicester sells its farm-raised elk, bison, yak meat and other products direct to consumers. For venison (and bison), see Maui Nui Venison and delivery service HarvestBox. For an elegant dining experience, The Gamekeeper restaurant near Boone, NC, specializes in dishes that feature legally sourced venison, bison, boar, duck and mountain trout.

Squirrel and Kimchi Steamed Dumplings

(Adapted from Chinese Homestyle by Maggie Zhu, Copyright 2022)

Serves 4–6 with 16 dumplings

Squirrel and Kimchi Steamed Dumplings

2 Eastern gray squirrels, cleaned and parted 4 dried shiitake mushrooms

3⁄4 cup hot water

1 tablespoon peanut/vegetable oil

2 cups kimchi, finely chopped

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine

11⁄2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1⁄2 teaspoon sugar

1⁄4 teaspoon salt, plus more if needed

Soy sauce to taste

16 gyoza wrappers

Parboil the squirrel for 2–3 hours, or sous vide at 165° for 4–5 hours. Remove the meat from the bones and finely chop.

Soak dry mushrooms in the hot water for 20 minutes, or until tender. Squeeze out excess water; mince.

Heat oil over medium heat in a skillet. Add the kimchi and stir frequently until the liquid cooks off. Add wine to deglaze the pan with a spatula. Add mushrooms, chopped squirrel meat, oyster sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and salt. Cook and stir until the liquid is gone. Season with salt and soy sauce to taste. Transfer the mixture from the pan to a plate to cool.

Prepare the gyoza wrappers as directed. Fill each wrapper in its center with 2 tablespoons of the kimchi/ meat mix. Wet the edge of the wrapper with water and seal by pinching with fingertips or pressing with the back of a fork.

Steam the dumplings in a bamboo steamer or on a colander over a pot of water at a low boil for 10 minutes. Line the steamer or colander with parchment paper to prevent sticking. Poke or cut holes in parchment paper to let steam through. Add water as necessary during cooking to prevent it from boiling off entirely.

Serve dumplings hot with your favorite dipping sauce.

Braised Black Bear Osso Buco

(Adapted from “Braised Venison Shanks Osso Buco” at TheMeateater.com)

Serves 6

A collection of homemade stock from wild game meats.

Two bear shanks cut into 2- to 3-inch discs tied around the middle with butcher’s twine3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

Kosher salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Flour for dredging

2 medium red onions, thinly sliced

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1⁄3-inch rounds

1 rib celery, sliced into 1⁄3-inch pieces

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1  cup dry red wine

2  quarts vegetable stock (or water)

Fresh thyme leaves

1 sprig fresh rosemary, chopped

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Heat the oil in an 8- or 10-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Season shanks with salt and pepper, then lightly dredge the discs with flour. Sear meat in batches on all sides, then remove to a plate.

Add carrots, celery, and onions to the Dutch oven and cook until onions are browned. Add garlic and cook for a min- ute or less. Add tomato paste and stir it into the vegetables.

Add the wine and use it to deglaze the pot, scraping any brown bits from the bottom.

Return the meat to the pot and cover with stock. Bring to a boil, stir in the rosemary and thyme, then reduce heat to low.

Cook covered at a low simmer for 31⁄2 to 4 hours, until meat is fork-tender. If necessary, add liquid while cooking to keep the meat covered.